Hotspot in Solitude
Although the rock-walls at mount Brüggler are well-known and therefore it’s a rather high-frequented climbing area, we spend a balmy summer wkend in solitude climbing the Highway & Rummelflucht Routes to reach the peak just in time to watch the sun set over Lake Zürich and the swiss flatland…
Unfortunately, there isn’t connection with the public transport from Näfels into Schwändital (taxi / shuttle supposedly available). With our large backpacks – geared up with rope and camping equipment – everyone saw us from a long distance to where we wanted to go. The first car that drove past us stopped (kind of hitchhiking+) and the friendly local senior who often used himsel to climb on Brüggler, offered us to give us a ride to the camp. The problem of accessing Brüggler without public transport has thus solved by itself – and this is normal in this area – people help each other. The south wall of Brüggler is striking, and from the campsite you have a first impression of where you’ll “hang out” for the next few days . Our lovable driver gave us the following advice: to climb rather towards the evening the Brüggler. It was in the daytime extremely hot to climb in the wall, and it is particularly rewarding to see the sunset over the plains of Zürich from the summit.
Climbing Day 1 – Cosy sunset
At about 16: 00h we started from our camping, we arrived after a very relaxed climbing (Rummelfluch, 4a, 3RL), just in time for sunset (incl. ridge-exceedence) the summit. Our driver was right, indeed sunset is the best time to be ontop of the Brüggler. The panorama of Lake Zurich and Lake Walen and the views over the plains with the setting sun is unique!
Climbing Day 2 – Highway to Dusk
Based on our previous day’s experience, we decided to time the day exactly the same. We started at 15: 00h and reached out for exciting 7 pitches, of which the last one felt hardest (5a – but it felt like a 5c). We reached the top with the last sunlight and strolled at dusk slowly back to the camp where our prepared campfire was awaiting us.
|SUI -> GL -> Näfels-Molins -> Schwändital
|Duration Access:||40′ (from the camping)|
|Sections:||South wall (14 Routes) ||
Sanified and well maintained, nice quickdraw-gaps.
|Yes – Camping & Parking @ “Alp Büelen” (End of public road)
|Advanced (alpin3, 3+ bis 7+ )
1 – 10 Rope lengths (250m)
Highway (5b) / …? (?)
|Frequented:||High (Especiually on wkends)|
|Participants:||Al‘ | Karo|
Access Climbing Wall
Easy hike on a well-developed (but blocked by a barrier for cars) dirtroad results in 30-40 minutes from the campsite to the south wall of Brüggler. The last few meters u hike up a market singletrail.
Repelling or follow the ridge westwards to the summit and then hike down the mountain turn left in the second gap (red dot) and descent south on a steep hiking trail (short simple easy down-climbing-section) and walk back to the begin of the wall.
Quickdraws: minimum 12 Pc
Climbing Slings: Several for securing on the stands.
Topos & Routes
All “red” tagged words in the article are links to further information on the respective term. Below, you will find additional links concerning transport region, attractions, accommodation, food & drink etc …
The Schwändital is located at about 1000 to 1300 m above sea level in a valley west of the village of Näfels in the north the Canton of Glarus.
- Camping & Parkplatz
At Alp Büelen there’s a small alpine-camping, with fresh water and a multi-use-room (rainproof). Also, the camping offers 2 barbecues (with free wood) and a fountain for cooling the beverage as well as well as toilets. Please check out the pricing locally. On the weekend the camping is attended by a warden.